On Wednesday morning, Melania Trump broke with tradition for one last time in her term as First Lady by eschewing American designers; she made her official exit from the White House in a funereal Dolce & Gabbana dress and Chanel jacket. Meanwhile, elsewhere in the Capitol, First Lady Jill Biden and Vice President Kamala Harris had already brought that era to an end. For a memorial on the eve of the inauguration, both wore designs by American up-and-comers: a camel coat by Pyer Moss’s Kerby Jean Raymond for Harris, and a purple Jonathan Cohen coat and dress for Biden.
Just 12 hours later, Biden gave another New York-based up-and-comer an even bigger shoutout. She will shortly watch her husband be sworn into office in a custom woolen tweed coat and dress, along with a matching silk face mask, by Markarian’s Alexandra O’Neill.
O’Neill, who launched Markarian in 2017 after struggling to find a dress for her sister’s wedding, typically keeps things light. She’s described her dreamy, traditionally feminine designs favored by celebrities like Emma Roberts and Emily Ratajkowski as Jane Austen meets Laura Ashley. But for Biden, she went with something symbolic. “The color blue,” O’Neill explained in a press release, “was chosen for the pieces to signify trust, confidence, and stability.”
Raymond seems to have been just the first Black American designer Harris plans to rep. For her inaugural ensemble, she chose a purple coat by Christopher John Rogers and shoes by Sergio Hudson. Like Biden’s the previous night, the coat is purple—a color that’s proven particularly popular among inaugural attendees. Michelle Obama and Hillary Clinton followed suit, and perhaps symbolically; purple, of course, is a mix of red and blue.
Related: Kamala Harris Wears Christopher John Rogers, a Heralded Black American Designer, For Inauguration
From Melania Trump to Jacqueline Kennedy, a History of First Ladies’ Inauguration Day Style
For her husband’s second inauguration, Mamie Eisenhower wore a citron lace ballgown – with a matching slip and petticoat – designed by Nettie Rosenstein.
First Lady Mamie Eisenhower, 1957
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Jackie Kennedy took on her role as First Lady and burgeoning style icon wearing a sleeveless silk chiffon dress, which she helped to design alongside Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Goodman.
Jacqueline Kennedy, 1961
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Patricia Nixon took in her husband’s swearing-in wearing a bright pink peacoat, paired with a mink stole and matching hat.
Pat Nixon, 1969
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Rosalynn Carter arrived to the capital hand-in-hand with her husband, wearing a swingy teal peacoat and knee-high boots.
Rosalynn Carter, 1977
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Nancy Regan looked to her favorite color – red – for her 1981 ensemble.
Nancy Reagan, 1981
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Nancy Reagan made her penchant for all things glamorous known at the 1981 Inaugural Ball, donning a one-shouldered lace gown by John Galanos.
Nancy Reagan, 1981
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At her husband’s 1985 swearing in, Nancy Reagan donned a blue suit and matching hat – with heaps of gold jewelry for good measure.
Nancy Reagan, 1985
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Hillary Clinton made a major statement in a royal purple gown by little-known designer Sarah Phillips in 1993.
Hillary Clinton, 1993
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For Bill Clinton’s second swearing in, Hillary went pink, in a pastel-hued wool coat.
Hillary Clinton, 1997
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Oscar de la Renta was Hillary Clinton’s designer of choice for her second inaugural ball, where she a wore a glimmering, long-sleeved gold gown.
Hillary Clinton, 1997
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Laura Bush opted for a designer from her home state of Texas, wearing a beaded Michael Faircloth gown.
Laura Bush, 2001
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For her husband’s 2005 swearing in, Laura Bush went winter white in a pristine Oscar de la Renta suit.
Laura Bush, 2005
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The designer also dressed Bush for that year’s inaugural ball, crafting an ice blue and silver embroidered tulle V-neck dress.
Laura Bush, 2005
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Michelle Obama stepped outside the traditional red, white and blue color palette in 2009, wearing a sunny yellow suit by Isabel Toledo.
Michelle Obama, 2009
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Obama selected young designer Jason Wu’s cream-colored, one shoulder gown for the couple’s first inauguration, marking her first step as a major fashion influencer.
Michelle Obama, 2009
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Obama arrived to the 2013 inaugural parade wearing a blue checked coat by Thom Browne, cinched with a metallic belt.
Michelle Obama, 2013
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Once again, Jason Wu dressed Obama for the Inaugural Ball in 2013 with a show-stopping red velvet and chiffon gown.
Michelle Obama, 2013
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Melania Trump arrived at the White House for her husband’s swearing in wearing a powder blue Ralph Lauren suit that recalled Jackie Kennedy’s signature style.
Melania Trump, 2017
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